All About Brakes.
Last updated 23/1/23
A collection of my reviews, advice and personal opinions on everything brake related. In the future, I’ll continue to update this as I review new products and create some content on brake setup and riding skills.
For transparency, I’m an expert level 70kg rider who mostly rides DH, enduro and bike park. Reviews on this site or my youtube channel are 100% funded by me. Any other reviews linked here were at previous jobs where I received products for free and was paid to create reviews.
What I’m looking for in a brake is massive usable power with good modulation, perfect heat management, consistency, robustness, ease of service + spare parts. There are more brakes on the market than in this list, but these are the most important ones that come to mind for my riding style and the frequently requested by my followers.
Price isn’t a huge concern as I’m lucky to have a budget to buy all these overpriced products so that I can tell you about them! Price is very dependent on the consumer as dropping €1300 on some Trickstuff is nothing for one rider when another is struggling to buy some used Shimano Deore for €80 on Marketplace.
Weight is not a concern at all. I would never try to save weight on brakes for the following reason: according to r2bike.com’s figures, an uber-light pair of Trickstuff Piccola carbon XC brakes weigh 324g against a really heavy pair of Hope Tech4 with tough braided hoses weighs 386g more at 710g.
As a percentage of my weight + kit + bike that’s something like a 0.4% difference to the total system: I’ll make that sacrifice and have more power, better heat management, the ability to brake safer and later, bigger bolts that aren’t fiddly along with braided stainless steel hoses which are many times tougher than plastic.
Brake Pads that I can recommend are Trickstuff Power pads which can make an unreal difference to some brakes, they don’t last long but offer max power. Galfer Green are also incredible but I prefer the longer-lasting Galfer Purple, but forget their Red options. I’m sure there are many other great pads, but I cannot try everything. If you have underperforming brakes then some of these pads mentioned will be a good start to improve them.
Rotors are ideally 200mm for me. 180mm can be good if you are not burning down long alpine descents and 220mm are sick for max power and cooling but always involve extra mounts and bigger rotors which are (heavier Lol) more susceptible to bending or striking obstacles. Older style 1.8mm thin rotors are out-of-date and 2.0mm or 2.3mm should become the standard everywhere to keep 200/220mm rotors straight. I’m currently more than happy with Hope HD 200mm x 2.3mm on my Hope Tech 4 these give me more than all the power I need and I never have heat issues or warped rotors.
Hoses literally protect your life with the tiny amount of hydraulic oil hidden inside them. Plastic hoses can get crushed between dual crown fork stanchions and the frame, or damaged in transit or crashes, they can also get cut fairly easily by flying rocks. A lot of this damage risk is reduced with modern internal routing but I think that MTB riding is dangerous enough as it is and I don’t want to discover I have no brakes when I need them most. Goodridge (found on Trickstuff) are the gold standard and are essentially unbreakable, standard stainless steel braided work well and some brands like Formula offer kevlar reinforced options. My advice is to get the toughest you can find before you find out what a split hose feels like.
Bleeding. Buy the proper bleed kit on day one and learn how to bleed them properly. Don’t wait for the third day of your summer holiday in Morzine after using them for a year and never bleeding them, you are asking for problems if you do this. I have definitely been guilty of this and worse in the past.